For my subculture I decided to choose designers who I feel
really epitomise what The Mixers are all about – being fun with fashion and
trying out new and exciting things. The first designer I have chosen is the
young British designer Katie Eary. A former student of the Royal College of Art
Katie Eary has graced us at London Fashion Week with her unique and eclectic
prints. To me, I see Katie Eary’s work as very on-trend at the moment with the
younger generation and although it may not be suitable for every generation, it
does exude a street couture attitude that would perhaps suit the likes of
celebrities such as Rita Ora, Rihanna or Miley Cyrus. My favourite collection of Katie’s would have
to be her SS13 collection which had her being the talk of town. Despite the fact that some may see her work as
kitsch or too over the top I think it works just well is definitely suitable
for the daring fashionista’s out there.
Her SS13 collection was full of bold, shiny colours and in your face
baroque underwater prints that would definitely make you the certain of
attention no matter what room you walked into. What she manages to do in her
collection is turn what these colourful vibrant prints that could have turned
out to be a kitsch disaster into intricate architectural ensembles. Inspired by
the bling side of Californian skate culture, this collection saw models walk
down the catwalk in everything from embossed crocodile jackets and oversized
rucksacks to pure silk shirts with hypnotic aqua blue patterns. From Eary’s
work I really do get a sense of a Versace-esque inspiration, but with a difference – a
somewhat ‘urban and contemporary street’ twist with a more affordable price tag. Eary also
manipulates fabrics,
fusing neoprene with jersey and cotton and patent leather for a distinctly
luxe-street feel. What I really
find interesting about Eary’s work is that although I do like her womenswear
wear collections, I often find myself in awe of her menswear pieces. What I
really like about it is the contrast in her male pieces as she uses what could
be considered as more feminine and sleek prints for the boxy, heavy and
oversized silhouettes.
Pierre Balmain was "a king of French fashion" and outfitted stars including Ava Gardner and Brigitte Bardot and Sophia Loren. Considered to be one of the design giants responsible for reenergizing lavish couture dressing after World War II, Balmain was infamous for its elegant and super-feminine silhouettes that every woman wanted to wear. After Balmain’s death in 1982 the house was led by Erik Mortensen, described by Vogue as Pierre Balmain's "right hand." Oscar de la Renta ran the fashion house between 1993 and 2002. Under Pierre Balmain, Mortensen, and de la Renta, the house was known for its classic, luxurious designs. His 2010 collection, shown during Paris fashion week, was said to be "totally retro" and "[brought] back the glitz and glitter of the 1970s disco era." And for a label that was once known for ultra elegant evening attire with a draping and pleating focus, Decarnin's appointment took it toward tough-chic, thigh-grazing, body-skimming looks — a sensibility that embraces the quintessential trendsetting French party girl. In 2011, the house of Balmain announced the appointment of Olivier Rousteing as its new Designer. What I love about the brand is its strong identity which hasn’t been lost throughout the years despite the fact that is has been run by several individuals. It is very evident that the house has now taken on a more modern and edgier aesthetic however the luxurious and super feminine silhouettes still exist but with a modern twist which makes me more and more excited to see what Balmain has in store every season. It was in 2009 that I became knowledgeable of the luxurious brand after seeing several celebrities including the likes of Rihanna and BeyoncĂ© wearing beautifully intricate military jackets that oozed high couture. A key element of the fashion house is their signature emphasis on the shoulders and their flashy yet far from kitsch aesthetic. Its bold, daring and big. In an relaxed and 80’s infused way, this year’s collection is definitely one that I wish was a part of my wardrobe. I love the new approach with this collection, "I wanted to explore something casual and sporty,” says the creative director Rousteing. And that is exactly what it does – but in true Balmain fashion with sparkles and bling, monochrome houndstooth, chunky gold chain belts and quilted bomber jackets paired with super-feminine ruffled skirts and glossy black leather overalls that scream high-end are all a part of the SS14 collection which makes it ever so more desirable.
After completing her MA fashion program at Central St Martins, Rocha made her debut at London Fashion Week on-schedule with Fashion East in 2010. Rocha’s collections have generated recognition and gained her some of the most prestigious stockists in the world including Dover Street Market in London and Colette in Paris, with Colette choosing to showcase Rocha’s Autumn/Winter 2011 collection in their front window during Couture week in June 2011. September 2011 saw Simone launch a 6 piece capsule collection for Topshop, a design from Simone’s archive re-issued as part of Fashion East founder Lulu Kennedy’s ‘Lulu&Co’ range and present her spring 2012 collection as a solo catwalk show at London Fashion Week. Rocha’s work definitely oozes femininity and romance but with a modern take. Asked who embodies the spirit of her brand, Rocha quotes “any woman or girl who can identify femininity.” And that is highly evident in all her collections, from her soft and feminine colour palettes to her use of soft, romantic materials like sheer, plastic and so on. Although Rocha’s work without a doubt embodies femininity at its best, for me her work is sometimes a mixture of androgyny silhouettes that have been romanticized by her use of fabrics; think boxy, oversized as well as tailored coats and drop gathered waists.
































